Lift & Offset
Suspension height and wheel offset work together. Lift creates room for taller tires; offset and width decide where those tires sit relative to the fender and the suspension.
Leveling vs lift
- A leveling kit raises the front 1.5–2.5" to match the rear. Typically supports 33" tires with mild trimming.
- A 4–6" suspension lift generally supports 35"–37" tires and more aggressive offsets.
- A 6"+ lift opens up 37"+ tires but increases driveline and alignment considerations.
What offset actually does
Offset is measured in millimeters from the wheel's mounting pad to its centerline. A higher (more positive) offset moves the wheel inward toward the suspension. A lower or negative offset pushes it outward toward the fender — the “poke” or deep-lip look trucks are known for.
- +18 to +30mm: factory-style tuck, best for stock trucks and daily driving.
- 0 to +18mm: mild, flush stance on leveled trucks.
- -12 to 0mm: noticeable lip, common on leveled and mildly lifted builds.
- -24mm and lower: aggressive poke, generally lifted trucks with wider tires.
Rubbing and clearance
Rubbing usually shows up at full steering lock or under suspension compression. Outward offset moves contact toward the fender liner and pinch weld; inward offset moves contact toward the upper control arm, sway bar, and brake caliper. Wider wheels shift both edges at once, so width and offset must be evaluated together.
Stance planning by build
- Stock: keep close to OE offset and stay near OE tire diameter.
- Leveled: 1"–2" taller tire and slightly lower offset, watch front liner clearance.
- Lifted: taller tires and negative offset, expect fender flare or trimming on the most aggressive setups.
- Dually: front and rear positions use different offsets by design — always buy the matched kit.