Fitment Guide
Fitment is the difference between a wheel that bolts on cleanly and one that rubs, sits wrong, or won't mount at all. Here's every measurement that matters on a truck, in the order we check it.
Start with the vehicle, not the wheel
Selecting your year, make, model, and configuration lets us narrow results to the bolt patterns that physically apply to your truck. Everything else — width, offset, tire size — is a style and clearance decision made inside that constraint.
Bolt pattern
The number of studs and the diameter of the circle they sit on, e.g. 6x139.7 or 8x170. It is a hard requirement: a wheel with the wrong pattern cannot be made to fit safely. Some wheels are dual-drilled and carry two patterns.
Hub bore and hub-centric rings
The center bore is the hole in the back of the wheel that sits over the hub. If the wheel bore is larger than the vehicle hub, a hub-centric ring is required to center the wheel. If the wheel bore is smaller than the hub, the wheel will not seat and we block that combination.
Width, offset, and backspacing
- Width is the barrel measurement in inches and sets the range of tire widths you can mount.
- Offset (mm) is how far the mounting pad sits from the wheel centerline. Lower/negative offset pushes the wheel outward; higher offset tucks it in.
- Backspacing measures from the mounting pad to the back lip and controls inner clearance against suspension and brake components.
Tire diameter
Overall tire diameter drives rubbing at full lock and suspension travel. Going taller usually means more trimming, a level kit, or a lift. Our tire size guide covers flotation sizes like 35x12.50R20 and metric sizes like 285/70R17.
SRW vs DRW (single vs dual rear wheel)
One-ton dually trucks need a matched kit: front wheels plus rear outer and, on some designs, rear inner wheels — six pieces total, with six tires. Our builder assembles matched dually kits automatically and prices them as the sum of their components.